Like a second album for a successful band, a second restaurant for a successful chef can be a tough challenge. Too similar to the original venture and they run the risk of being branded formulaic and unoriginal. Too different and they risk losing some of the magic that brought them success in the first place. The process can't be any easier with fans and food critics alike, poised with baited breath, awaiting the latest offering. Such were the challenges faced by Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder when they opened their new restaurant in Limewood.
Both chefs have an impeccable fine-dining pedigree, having worked in a constellation of Michelin Starred restaurants. Both have a strong Italian influence in their cooking. This Italian streak pervades through the entire experience. The building itself, set in the middle of the New Forest, was built to reflect Italian architecture with the main bar being set out like a central Piazza. A huge sliding roof allows vast amounts of natural light in and gives the space a lovely, airy feel. More to the point, the bar mixed the first decent negroni I've had since I lived with an Italian! A selection of lighter, less potent cocktails were available for the faint-hearted. I was also impressed by the extensive range of single malts available. Their ranks included some of my all time favourites.
The food had a very strong Italian feel to it with lots of pasta and rich tomato sauces on the menu, which itself was laid out in the style of a traditional Italian restaurant rather than starter, main and dessert.
On the subject of the menu; A3 sheets of card were just a bit big and unwieldy to handle at the table especially when we had decided what we wanted to eat and were ready to continue our conversation. Finding somewhere to put them on the already cramped table was a bit of a pain.
As well as being small, the tables became very cluttered when the main dishes were brought along with various side dishes. Cutlery, crockery, wine and food stayed on more by luck than design. The tables were also very close together. Had it been busier, I can imagine the dining room getting quite claustrophobic.
Despite these niggles, the food was mostly excellent. My starter, an antipasti of meats which were smoked and cured in house, was delicious and beautifully presented on a wooden block. A main course of cockles, plaice and smoked sweetcorn was equally tasty although I didn't really notice the chilli that claimed to be in there. My side of potatoes was delicious but erring on the oily side. Dessert was the usual cheeseboard which claimed to have a mix of Italian and British cheeses. I would have appreciated a brief explanation of each of the cheeses so I could have got a rough idea of which one was which. That said, I liked the concept and (crucially) there were plenty of biscuits to go with it.
For others in the party, dessert was a bit of a let down. My girlfriend's mother ended up having a slice of cake that would have looked more at home in a tea shop and, according to her, turned out to be a bit disappointing. This was mitigated by my girlfriend's dessert of strawberry and basil panna cotta. It looked so gorgeous that I couldn't help but pinch a bit. The strawberries and basil combined to form a beautifully refreshing flavour. This was accentuated by the panna cotta with a deliciously smooth, delicate texture.
As I said, the food at Limewood was delicious. However I think it suffered a bit from stylistic indecision. The website claims it to be 'fun dining not fine dining'. Why fine dining can't be fun I don't know but let's gloss over that. I presume this to mean they were aiming to move away from the formality and fussiness of fine dining towards a more relaxed brasserie style. I'm not sure this has been fully realised. The food and service is just a bit too formal to be brasserie but doesn't quite hit all the fine ding buttons either. Yes, it tasted fabulous but I (and the others with me) found the lack of definite focus a bit unsettling. Ultimately, a lot of thought and effort has gone into designing the experience and the branding around it. This is slightly let down by the food being served lacking direction.
So, with all this in mind, would I recommend it? Yes. The building is stunning; the setting more generally is spectacular; the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming and (despite the fact that I spent the last paragraph nit-picking) the food was delicious too.
TFB
Both chefs have an impeccable fine-dining pedigree, having worked in a constellation of Michelin Starred restaurants. Both have a strong Italian influence in their cooking. This Italian streak pervades through the entire experience. The building itself, set in the middle of the New Forest, was built to reflect Italian architecture with the main bar being set out like a central Piazza. A huge sliding roof allows vast amounts of natural light in and gives the space a lovely, airy feel. More to the point, the bar mixed the first decent negroni I've had since I lived with an Italian! A selection of lighter, less potent cocktails were available for the faint-hearted. I was also impressed by the extensive range of single malts available. Their ranks included some of my all time favourites.
The food had a very strong Italian feel to it with lots of pasta and rich tomato sauces on the menu, which itself was laid out in the style of a traditional Italian restaurant rather than starter, main and dessert.
On the subject of the menu; A3 sheets of card were just a bit big and unwieldy to handle at the table especially when we had decided what we wanted to eat and were ready to continue our conversation. Finding somewhere to put them on the already cramped table was a bit of a pain.
As well as being small, the tables became very cluttered when the main dishes were brought along with various side dishes. Cutlery, crockery, wine and food stayed on more by luck than design. The tables were also very close together. Had it been busier, I can imagine the dining room getting quite claustrophobic.
Despite these niggles, the food was mostly excellent. My starter, an antipasti of meats which were smoked and cured in house, was delicious and beautifully presented on a wooden block. A main course of cockles, plaice and smoked sweetcorn was equally tasty although I didn't really notice the chilli that claimed to be in there. My side of potatoes was delicious but erring on the oily side. Dessert was the usual cheeseboard which claimed to have a mix of Italian and British cheeses. I would have appreciated a brief explanation of each of the cheeses so I could have got a rough idea of which one was which. That said, I liked the concept and (crucially) there were plenty of biscuits to go with it.
For others in the party, dessert was a bit of a let down. My girlfriend's mother ended up having a slice of cake that would have looked more at home in a tea shop and, according to her, turned out to be a bit disappointing. This was mitigated by my girlfriend's dessert of strawberry and basil panna cotta. It looked so gorgeous that I couldn't help but pinch a bit. The strawberries and basil combined to form a beautifully refreshing flavour. This was accentuated by the panna cotta with a deliciously smooth, delicate texture.
As I said, the food at Limewood was delicious. However I think it suffered a bit from stylistic indecision. The website claims it to be 'fun dining not fine dining'. Why fine dining can't be fun I don't know but let's gloss over that. I presume this to mean they were aiming to move away from the formality and fussiness of fine dining towards a more relaxed brasserie style. I'm not sure this has been fully realised. The food and service is just a bit too formal to be brasserie but doesn't quite hit all the fine ding buttons either. Yes, it tasted fabulous but I (and the others with me) found the lack of definite focus a bit unsettling. Ultimately, a lot of thought and effort has gone into designing the experience and the branding around it. This is slightly let down by the food being served lacking direction.
So, with all this in mind, would I recommend it? Yes. The building is stunning; the setting more generally is spectacular; the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming and (despite the fact that I spent the last paragraph nit-picking) the food was delicious too.
TFB
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