Sunday, 13 July 2014
Friday, 2 May 2014
The Great British Menu
In case you have been living under a rock on another planet for a couple of years it's my duty to inform you that food is now seriously trendy in the UK. Not just going out to fancy restaurants but also cooking. Don't believe me? Have a look at the television schedules. They are stuffed full of cooking programmes.
Well I say that. There are lots of entertainment programmes with a pretext of food. With limited channel surfing you can choose between watching some hapless restaurateur being shouted at by someone with more awards than fingers; keen as mustard amateurs striving to impress dubious judges; some outrageous science where the results can be eaten or a crusade being worked out through the medium of food. Amongst all of this are shows where highly decorated chefs take you through some D.I.Y recipes at just the right pace to require you to buy the accompanying cook book to get the full details of what ingredients and techniques are needed.
If I'm sounding cynical, I don't mean it too literally. Most of the shows are quite entertaining, some I watch avidly. Admittedly, some I avoid like the plague. However amongst all of this is one programme which showcases some of the best aspects of the food culture in Britain today. It is the Great British Menu.
For those of you not familiar with it, this is a cooking competition where chefs from around Britain aim to represent their region at a ceremonial banquet. The banquet in question usually has some theme which has to be reflected throughout the cooking. With some notable exceptions (not mentioning any comic relief series... funny food indeed) this has usually provided some interesting ways for the competing chefs to flex their cooking muscles. Among my favourites were showcasing local suppliers and the current series which is working towards a banquet commemorating D Day.
The main reason I love this series is that it focuses unashamedly on gastronomic brilliance. Recipes may be published on the BBC website but in the real world, most "civilians" wouldn't dream of trying to replicate the dishes produced. They are designed to make the diner go "wow" and frequently have that effect (on one viewer at least). It is also a brilliant way to see some of Britain's best chefs at work and get an insight into the way they cook. This has led, on several occasions, to investigating the restaurants some of the competitors cook in and finding some absolute gems. Best of all is being able to watch experts at work.
So as competition is starting to warm up I highly recommend watching. My support is strongly with Emily Watkins of the Kingham Plough.
TFB
Well I say that. There are lots of entertainment programmes with a pretext of food. With limited channel surfing you can choose between watching some hapless restaurateur being shouted at by someone with more awards than fingers; keen as mustard amateurs striving to impress dubious judges; some outrageous science where the results can be eaten or a crusade being worked out through the medium of food. Amongst all of this are shows where highly decorated chefs take you through some D.I.Y recipes at just the right pace to require you to buy the accompanying cook book to get the full details of what ingredients and techniques are needed.
If I'm sounding cynical, I don't mean it too literally. Most of the shows are quite entertaining, some I watch avidly. Admittedly, some I avoid like the plague. However amongst all of this is one programme which showcases some of the best aspects of the food culture in Britain today. It is the Great British Menu.
For those of you not familiar with it, this is a cooking competition where chefs from around Britain aim to represent their region at a ceremonial banquet. The banquet in question usually has some theme which has to be reflected throughout the cooking. With some notable exceptions (not mentioning any comic relief series... funny food indeed) this has usually provided some interesting ways for the competing chefs to flex their cooking muscles. Among my favourites were showcasing local suppliers and the current series which is working towards a banquet commemorating D Day.
The main reason I love this series is that it focuses unashamedly on gastronomic brilliance. Recipes may be published on the BBC website but in the real world, most "civilians" wouldn't dream of trying to replicate the dishes produced. They are designed to make the diner go "wow" and frequently have that effect (on one viewer at least). It is also a brilliant way to see some of Britain's best chefs at work and get an insight into the way they cook. This has led, on several occasions, to investigating the restaurants some of the competitors cook in and finding some absolute gems. Best of all is being able to watch experts at work.
So as competition is starting to warm up I highly recommend watching. My support is strongly with Emily Watkins of the Kingham Plough.
TFB
Monday, 28 April 2014
Monday, 21 April 2014
The Drinks Globe
I'm not going to lie, as well as being delicious, whisky carries with it a certain image. I like to think of it as elegant sophistication. A hipflask in a well cut tweed jacket for example is, in my mind, a perfect pairing. Some may describe this as fogeyism but they can be ignored.
This easy elegance can extend to storage. Many years ago, all drinks were collected in earthenware pots only to be poured into glass bottles when they were ready to be drunk (by your bottler, later to become butler). This was down to glass being extremely expensive (and highly taxed). This process of decanting continues now with cut glass decanters remaining popular. I quite like decanting whisky. There is a certain ceremony to it and they are undeniably good looking objects. The problems arise when you forget what's in it (or when you think you remember then top it up with something different by accident - many an interesting blend has been created that way).
Now the tax on glass is less extortionate, or certainly no worse than the tax on everything else, most whiskies are supplied in bottles. These are invariably elegantly designed. The neck of an Old Pultney bottle, for example, is the same shape as the still in the distillery. Edradour has a picture of the extremely picturesque distillery on the label while Glenfiddich opts for the more traditional stag's head. All of these look good on the shelf not to mention making identification in times of intoxication relatively straight forward.
However for those seeking yet higher levels of sophistication, a drinks cabinet is required. Lining one's bottles up on the floor has limited visual effect after all. This is where my latest toy comes into play. Thanks to an eagle-eyed (not to mention extremely indulgent) fiancée, a drinks globe is now residing in the corner of the living room. What could be better to house my collection of whisky (well most of it)? It appears to Cat's love of "storage solutions" and my love of whisky, multi-purpose gadgets and general enjoyment of elegance. Not only does it keep hold of many of my bottles, there's even room for glasses too... assuming I have remembered to wash them up! Apparently there's also a picture of the surface of the earth on it too; so I'm told. As you can tell, I'm slightly smitten!
Sliante
TFB
This easy elegance can extend to storage. Many years ago, all drinks were collected in earthenware pots only to be poured into glass bottles when they were ready to be drunk (by your bottler, later to become butler). This was down to glass being extremely expensive (and highly taxed). This process of decanting continues now with cut glass decanters remaining popular. I quite like decanting whisky. There is a certain ceremony to it and they are undeniably good looking objects. The problems arise when you forget what's in it (or when you think you remember then top it up with something different by accident - many an interesting blend has been created that way).
Now the tax on glass is less extortionate, or certainly no worse than the tax on everything else, most whiskies are supplied in bottles. These are invariably elegantly designed. The neck of an Old Pultney bottle, for example, is the same shape as the still in the distillery. Edradour has a picture of the extremely picturesque distillery on the label while Glenfiddich opts for the more traditional stag's head. All of these look good on the shelf not to mention making identification in times of intoxication relatively straight forward.
However for those seeking yet higher levels of sophistication, a drinks cabinet is required. Lining one's bottles up on the floor has limited visual effect after all. This is where my latest toy comes into play. Thanks to an eagle-eyed (not to mention extremely indulgent) fiancée, a drinks globe is now residing in the corner of the living room. What could be better to house my collection of whisky (well most of it)? It appears to Cat's love of "storage solutions" and my love of whisky, multi-purpose gadgets and general enjoyment of elegance. Not only does it keep hold of many of my bottles, there's even room for glasses too... assuming I have remembered to wash them up! Apparently there's also a picture of the surface of the earth on it too; so I'm told. As you can tell, I'm slightly smitten!
Sliante
TFB
Monday, 7 April 2014
Whisky Vessels
Whisky is whisky isn't it? A brown fluid that tastes nice and makes you (well me) feel happy. Yes, a wide variety exists but ultimately, it's all whisky. It therefore follows that it shouldn't really matter what you drink it from. Whether it's a cup or a cut glass tumbler it will make no difference. Theoretically it shouldn't even matter if you swig it straight from the bottle; although if you find yourself at that stage you may want to seek professional help!
However we all know the vessel does make a difference. Whether it's the feeling it gives you when you have a dram or the effect it has on the drink when you sip it, glasses are all important. Strictly speaking, experts will tell you the best type of glass to drink whisky from is a 'nosing' glass. This tulip-shaped glass is designed to concentrate the volatile vapours from the whisky (and hence the aroma) a a specific point... the point at which the tip of most people's noses reach when they stick it in the glass. It is also held near the base so perfumes and natural pheromones don't get in the way of the scotch. The bulbous base lets you swill the whisky with gusto without risk of spilling meaning you can have a good look at the colour and the legs. On the down side, they are top-heavy so easily knocked over and don't sit naturally in the hand instead needing active holding. It's therefore not always a relaxing way to have a drink.
From one extreme to the other. The nosing glass is only really practical if you are sitting still and concentrating. The next drinking vessel is ideal if you're on the move... the hip flask. I love hip flasks. There's something terribly reassuring about knowing you've got a dram in your pocket. I also think they are things of beauty. My hip flasks are amongst some of my most treasured possessions; each one having their own story behind them. Ones I have given have been carefully (almost obsessively) thought out in terms of design, inscriptions and most importantly, size! On the down side, the narrow opening does make it a bit difficult to appreciate the aromas of they whisky. Best therefore to use favoured blends. It also makes them a bugger to fill even with special funnels. With liquid entering from the same hole air is exiting, messes can happen easily.
Next is the quaich; a shallow bowl made of pewter or stainless steel. Now mainly used for decorative value (and teabag holders by certain philistines) they are a bit clumsy for sipping an evening (or afternoon or morning) whisky. The best way I have seen it used is for ritualistic downing at a ceremonial event.
Last, but certainly not least is the tumbler. Usually these are either of cut crystal or smooth sided. Critically they will be short and wide based and should be able to take a very large dram without really showing it. These are certainly not designed for showing off how well honed your palette it. As a trade off, they are well balanced, stable and ideally suited to social drinking and relaxation. Again I have a few, each with their own stories which, to my mind, add value. The one I use most often is a cut crystal one I was given for my 18th birthday. It is a beautiful size and shape; holding a decent dram and fitting perfectly into my hand. Just hearing whisky pouring into it brings a Pavlovian feeling of relaxation.
Finally, if you're just getting into whisky or don't fancy splashing cash on drinking vessels (I've heard that there are such people out there) then there's a more every day alternative. The standard wine glass is ideally suited for whisky drinking. It's shaping allows aromas to concentrate. The stem allows it to be held well away from where the drinking is done (if held by the base) and, critically, it holds a decent amount.
So there you have it. The sensible thing now is to go and have a dram from each of these drinking vessels to see which one you prefer.
Sliante
TFB
However we all know the vessel does make a difference. Whether it's the feeling it gives you when you have a dram or the effect it has on the drink when you sip it, glasses are all important. Strictly speaking, experts will tell you the best type of glass to drink whisky from is a 'nosing' glass. This tulip-shaped glass is designed to concentrate the volatile vapours from the whisky (and hence the aroma) a a specific point... the point at which the tip of most people's noses reach when they stick it in the glass. It is also held near the base so perfumes and natural pheromones don't get in the way of the scotch. The bulbous base lets you swill the whisky with gusto without risk of spilling meaning you can have a good look at the colour and the legs. On the down side, they are top-heavy so easily knocked over and don't sit naturally in the hand instead needing active holding. It's therefore not always a relaxing way to have a drink.
From one extreme to the other. The nosing glass is only really practical if you are sitting still and concentrating. The next drinking vessel is ideal if you're on the move... the hip flask. I love hip flasks. There's something terribly reassuring about knowing you've got a dram in your pocket. I also think they are things of beauty. My hip flasks are amongst some of my most treasured possessions; each one having their own story behind them. Ones I have given have been carefully (almost obsessively) thought out in terms of design, inscriptions and most importantly, size! On the down side, the narrow opening does make it a bit difficult to appreciate the aromas of they whisky. Best therefore to use favoured blends. It also makes them a bugger to fill even with special funnels. With liquid entering from the same hole air is exiting, messes can happen easily.
Next is the quaich; a shallow bowl made of pewter or stainless steel. Now mainly used for decorative value (and teabag holders by certain philistines) they are a bit clumsy for sipping an evening (or afternoon or morning) whisky. The best way I have seen it used is for ritualistic downing at a ceremonial event.
Last, but certainly not least is the tumbler. Usually these are either of cut crystal or smooth sided. Critically they will be short and wide based and should be able to take a very large dram without really showing it. These are certainly not designed for showing off how well honed your palette it. As a trade off, they are well balanced, stable and ideally suited to social drinking and relaxation. Again I have a few, each with their own stories which, to my mind, add value. The one I use most often is a cut crystal one I was given for my 18th birthday. It is a beautiful size and shape; holding a decent dram and fitting perfectly into my hand. Just hearing whisky pouring into it brings a Pavlovian feeling of relaxation.
Finally, if you're just getting into whisky or don't fancy splashing cash on drinking vessels (I've heard that there are such people out there) then there's a more every day alternative. The standard wine glass is ideally suited for whisky drinking. It's shaping allows aromas to concentrate. The stem allows it to be held well away from where the drinking is done (if held by the base) and, critically, it holds a decent amount.
So there you have it. The sensible thing now is to go and have a dram from each of these drinking vessels to see which one you prefer.
Sliante
TFB
Monday, 3 February 2014
Restaurant Review: No. 1 The Folley
Everyone has a little local gem don't they? A great little place that is just around the corner and does cracking food at a reasonable price. Usually it will take no more than five minutes to get to and have readily available tables.
Until recently I was lacking one. Nowhere in the local area really stood out. There was an anonymous looking place on the way into town. It made it securely on to the 'to go' list but we somehow never quite made it there. However recently there was a special offer on and if there is ever a good reason to investigate somewhere, it's a bargain!
And so it was that we ended up at No. 1 Folley Bridge.
I will tell you the details shortly but let me tell you my lasting impression first; overwhelming disappointment. Disappointment that I hadn't been there sooner.
The entrance is down some stairs in one of a strange collection of buildings that is on an island in the Thames. This unassuning entrance conceals a wonderful restaurant. Even in the evening the dining room was beautifully light and airy. The room was broken up with some elegant decoration an nicely ambient jazz was playing. However the main feature was the glass wall looking out on to the river and the pontoon that serves as a dining room extension. At night this was impressive. I can imagine a summer evening being breathtaking.
Now before this turns into an interior design blog, let me give you some more details. The staff were friendly and attentive without fussing. They took our orders swiftly and without note pads... nice touch!
Now to the food. It was sensational. I had some delicious scallops as a starter. They were perfectly cooked, meltingly tender and served with some delicious potatoes. Cat had some beautiful crab ravioli.
My main course was duck with potatoes cooked in the fat. I probably should have felt guilty eating duck given we regularly feed the ducks only 50 meters away from where I was eating. The crispy skin combined with the beautifully pink flesh and the substantial portion soon banished any of these thoughts. Poached eggs put a stop to myle trying any of Cat's halibut but it looked delicious.
All of the dishes were beautifully presented and decently plentiful. The service was reasonably swift and the whole experience wonderfully relaxing. Price-wise, like I say we had a special offer. However looking at the menu, the prices offer excellent value at normal rates. My only one minor gripe is that the wine measures were a bit in the small side.
So a conclusion. I have my new local gem. We will be going back there repeatedly. Not only is it worth a visit while living locally, it is worth travelling to for a meal.
TFB
Saturday, 25 January 2014
Tasting Tweets #TT
With Burn's night rapidly approaching, now would be a good time for the monthly whisky post. Burns was a tremendous lover of whisky and wrote about it frequently in his poetry. Despite this, during his lifetime, he did his bit to stifle the industry by becoming an excise man... an individual responsible for the collection of taxes.
Given Scotland's Bard has devoted many words to whisky (as have many other great Scottish authors subsequently) you can imagine that it's easy to wax lyrical and in flowery prose on the subject. Insightful details of grassy high-notes with a sweet after taste trip of the tongue teasingly. Even without resorting to cliche, it is easy to clock up the word-count.
Which is why I've decided to set myself a small challenge over the coming months. Rather than write paragraphs and paragraphs on the subject, I have decided to condense my notes on particular whiskies to 140 characters or a tweet. For those of you who haven't found me on twitter, I can be found @JeevesFad and I will be using the hashtag #TT (those in the know can have a chuckle at that one).
My first attempt was about Edradour:
Edradour 10 y.o. Smooth, sweet, silky and rich. Smallest legal distillery. White chocolate on the after-taste. My favourite whisky #TT
Enjoy.
Sliante
TFB
Given Scotland's Bard has devoted many words to whisky (as have many other great Scottish authors subsequently) you can imagine that it's easy to wax lyrical and in flowery prose on the subject. Insightful details of grassy high-notes with a sweet after taste trip of the tongue teasingly. Even without resorting to cliche, it is easy to clock up the word-count.
Which is why I've decided to set myself a small challenge over the coming months. Rather than write paragraphs and paragraphs on the subject, I have decided to condense my notes on particular whiskies to 140 characters or a tweet. For those of you who haven't found me on twitter, I can be found @JeevesFad and I will be using the hashtag #TT (those in the know can have a chuckle at that one).
My first attempt was about Edradour:
Edradour 10 y.o. Smooth, sweet, silky and rich. Smallest legal distillery. White chocolate on the after-taste. My favourite whisky #TT
Enjoy.
Sliante
TFB
Wednesday, 22 January 2014
Snacking
Since my mid-teens I have not really been a fan of snacking. It's not that I have anything against it, I just never really had the desire. When I was a student this had the distinct advantage of saving me quite a bit if cash. It also contributed to me maintaining my scrawny teenage physique for longer than I had any right to expect.
One big advantage I had in the snack stakes was that I didn't have a sweet tooth. As such i could walk past a vending machine without having my head turned and sugary drinks had no appeal. Try abstaining from sugar. Soon any cravings will stop and your trousers will fit again.
Now I have written the above in the past tense. Sadly this was intentional. Things have shifted somewhat in the last year or so. I can pinpoint the exact event that caused it... moving out of London. In a stroke I stopped walking as much as I did and became aware of how many calories can be burned by being late and running to the bus stop. Worse, I moved in with a confirmed chocoholic. Before this I never had snacks in the house. Why would I? I didn't like them. Suddenly I found myself surrounded by seductively packaged sweets. Of course while they were there I ate them either out of boredom or because it becomes rude to refuse continual kind offers to share. These two facts combined to have a devastating impact on the belt line.
Normally rhis wouldn't bother me too much beyond the irritation of having to buy new clothes. However recently said chocoholic agreed to be my wife. So far so good except I have the privilege of being Scottish and want to get maried in my kilt. The kilt I have had since I was 17. The kilt which is now struggling to fit!
Cue a strict (ish) diet. Obviously the easiest way to cut down calories and hence weight is to stop snacking. I shouldn't miss it that much right? Sadly wrong. Somehow the idea that I can't have something even though it was something I didn't really like in the first place has made it tremendously appealing. In short I have started craving snacks. Refusing them has become a tremendous act of will power.
So with 8 months to go; wish me luck!
TFB
Sunday, 19 January 2014
Restaurant Review: Byron Burger
I'm not the greatest fan of chain restaurants (despite my positive reviews of some in my post date food). Generally the thought of turning out exactly the same dishes time after time, day after day in venues across the country is a bit boring in soulless. I also don't like the idea of swelling the coffers of a corporate giant when there are lots of small, passionate chefs and restaurateurs out there struggling to get by.
So with all this in mind it may come as a bit of a surprise to hear that a couple of weeks ago I paid a visit to the latest chain to be making it's mark in the UK; Byron Burger. An American-style burger bar specialising in... you guessed it. Burgers!
It won't lie; my reason for visiting was entirely due to peer pressure. Friends banged on about it so incessantly that eventually I capitulated and decided to give it ago. As well as a latent spirit of exploration, I thought it would be fun to get some innovative ideas for things to do with burgers.
Our first impressions were good. Excellent even. We were greeted by the waitress in a warm, friendly way that so many places aspire to yet so many aspire to. I also really liked the decoration. If I were the pretentious, flouncy type I would describe it as "shabby chic" however I'm not so I will opt for decaying elegance.Lots of exposed brickwork and nothing too polished.
The menu was refreshingly simple and straight forward with only a few signature dishes available. This stopped an endless internal and external debate over what to have and gave enticing prospect of quality. It wasn't just the food menu I was impressed by. The beer menu was excellent too. Not only did it have an impressive selection of local beers, there was a good range of American craft beers.
Starters were limited. There was a choice between nachos with salsa or olives. See what I mean? But we didn't come for starters. Refreshingly, both the nachos and the accompanying salsa and guacamole were hand made rather than scooped out of a packet. They also arrived with reasonable speed.
My main course was the rather festively named triple cheesmas burger which, surprisingly was a burger smothered in three types of cheese. It was delicious. The Scottish beef (added plus points) was cooked to a beautiful medium rare and melted deliciously in the mouth. The bun had a lovely consistency and the chips were not only deliciously crunchy but perfectly seasoned. I also really liked the courgette chips I pinched from my then girlfriend (see previous post) which were cooked in a light and crispy batter - well we wouldn't want it being too healthy would we. Unfortunately, the giant pile of burger and bun, while visually appealing, was almost impossible to eat to utterly impossible to consume with any degree of grace of elegance. Not somewhere to go on a first date!
This was relative small fry though. Timings proved the biggest disappointment. The starters arrived towards the end of the acceptable time limit for starters. All very well but slightly concerning given the restaurant was virtually empty. Worse still, the main courses arrived within only minutes of our starter. Having the two in front of us simultaneously was distinctly off putting and meant that we didn't really have the opportunity to enjoy the starter. Not only was it a bit galling to be paying for something that we didn't really enjoy, I hate seeing food wasted.
So overall, I like the feel of the restaurant. The food is excellent and well thought out. Not only that, the burgers manage to be interesting without being naff. As well as all this, the staff are excellent. It's just a shame that the two courses turned up in such quick succession. I think next time I have one, I might be trying it as a takeaway.
TFB
So with all this in mind it may come as a bit of a surprise to hear that a couple of weeks ago I paid a visit to the latest chain to be making it's mark in the UK; Byron Burger. An American-style burger bar specialising in... you guessed it. Burgers!
It won't lie; my reason for visiting was entirely due to peer pressure. Friends banged on about it so incessantly that eventually I capitulated and decided to give it ago. As well as a latent spirit of exploration, I thought it would be fun to get some innovative ideas for things to do with burgers.
Our first impressions were good. Excellent even. We were greeted by the waitress in a warm, friendly way that so many places aspire to yet so many aspire to. I also really liked the decoration. If I were the pretentious, flouncy type I would describe it as "shabby chic" however I'm not so I will opt for decaying elegance.Lots of exposed brickwork and nothing too polished.
The menu was refreshingly simple and straight forward with only a few signature dishes available. This stopped an endless internal and external debate over what to have and gave enticing prospect of quality. It wasn't just the food menu I was impressed by. The beer menu was excellent too. Not only did it have an impressive selection of local beers, there was a good range of American craft beers.
Starters were limited. There was a choice between nachos with salsa or olives. See what I mean? But we didn't come for starters. Refreshingly, both the nachos and the accompanying salsa and guacamole were hand made rather than scooped out of a packet. They also arrived with reasonable speed.
My main course was the rather festively named triple cheesmas burger which, surprisingly was a burger smothered in three types of cheese. It was delicious. The Scottish beef (added plus points) was cooked to a beautiful medium rare and melted deliciously in the mouth. The bun had a lovely consistency and the chips were not only deliciously crunchy but perfectly seasoned. I also really liked the courgette chips I pinched from my then girlfriend (see previous post) which were cooked in a light and crispy batter - well we wouldn't want it being too healthy would we. Unfortunately, the giant pile of burger and bun, while visually appealing, was almost impossible to eat to utterly impossible to consume with any degree of grace of elegance. Not somewhere to go on a first date!
This was relative small fry though. Timings proved the biggest disappointment. The starters arrived towards the end of the acceptable time limit for starters. All very well but slightly concerning given the restaurant was virtually empty. Worse still, the main courses arrived within only minutes of our starter. Having the two in front of us simultaneously was distinctly off putting and meant that we didn't really have the opportunity to enjoy the starter. Not only was it a bit galling to be paying for something that we didn't really enjoy, I hate seeing food wasted.
So overall, I like the feel of the restaurant. The food is excellent and well thought out. Not only that, the burgers manage to be interesting without being naff. As well as all this, the staff are excellent. It's just a shame that the two courses turned up in such quick succession. I think next time I have one, I might be trying it as a takeaway.
TFB
Saturday, 11 January 2014
A Return
Good Evening All. A very Happy New Year to everyone reading. I hope you all had a wonderful (and indulgent) Christmas and New Year.
I am sorry for the lack of posting lately. I would pretend to be benevolent and say I didn't clutter up your Christmas with further recipes for turkey and stuffing but the reasons are slightly more complex.
Firstly, Christmas is always a hectic time. Although I didn't do much of the catering over the festive period, I was still rushing about a lot.
Secondly, I have had the good fortune of becoming engaged! When I proposed, I was well appraised of the fact that weddings required a lot of planning... however I didn't quite realise HOW much was a lot. So as you can imagine, much of my spare time has been taken up by planning. (If you're interested, my fiancée is writing a detailed blog on the preparations so far).
Now obviously a fairly major part of any wedding is the meal (those in the know will insist on calling it a breakfast but, as it probably won't involve bacon, I won't be jumping on that band wagon) and a fair few drinks. Naturally your friendly food blogger will be turning his eye and opinion to these matters and of course I intend to chronicle them here. Fortunately, my fiancée has an almost equally keen eye for detail when it comes to all things edible and I must admit that most of the suggestions that have been truly revolutionary have come from her.
For the time being let me leave you with a concept I find deeply comforting in so many ways: wedding whisky.
Not long before we got engaged Cat bought me a bottle of Cardhu 12 year old (a rather nice Speyside). Being a sentimental sort, I like opening bottles of malt to mark occasions rather than just for the sake of it. Duly I decided that the Cardhu would be opened to celebrate the engagement. So far so good. Better still, Cat that suggested that (in order to take the edge off of all of the planning) I have a dram every time that planning is engaged in to try and foster some positive Pavlovian associations. It has worked rather well. Planning has become thoroughly enjoyable pass time. So much so I try and engage in it at every possible opportunity. Funny that!
TFB
I am sorry for the lack of posting lately. I would pretend to be benevolent and say I didn't clutter up your Christmas with further recipes for turkey and stuffing but the reasons are slightly more complex.
Firstly, Christmas is always a hectic time. Although I didn't do much of the catering over the festive period, I was still rushing about a lot.
Secondly, I have had the good fortune of becoming engaged! When I proposed, I was well appraised of the fact that weddings required a lot of planning... however I didn't quite realise HOW much was a lot. So as you can imagine, much of my spare time has been taken up by planning. (If you're interested, my fiancée is writing a detailed blog on the preparations so far).
Now obviously a fairly major part of any wedding is the meal (those in the know will insist on calling it a breakfast but, as it probably won't involve bacon, I won't be jumping on that band wagon) and a fair few drinks. Naturally your friendly food blogger will be turning his eye and opinion to these matters and of course I intend to chronicle them here. Fortunately, my fiancée has an almost equally keen eye for detail when it comes to all things edible and I must admit that most of the suggestions that have been truly revolutionary have come from her.
For the time being let me leave you with a concept I find deeply comforting in so many ways: wedding whisky.
Not long before we got engaged Cat bought me a bottle of Cardhu 12 year old (a rather nice Speyside). Being a sentimental sort, I like opening bottles of malt to mark occasions rather than just for the sake of it. Duly I decided that the Cardhu would be opened to celebrate the engagement. So far so good. Better still, Cat that suggested that (in order to take the edge off of all of the planning) I have a dram every time that planning is engaged in to try and foster some positive Pavlovian associations. It has worked rather well. Planning has become thoroughly enjoyable pass time. So much so I try and engage in it at every possible opportunity. Funny that!
TFB
Sunday, 22 December 2013
The Local
The Local. Everybody should have one. A place that becomes a home from home.The automatic default choice when you fancy a drink. The place where you go when someone suggests going to "the pub". Somewhere that makes you feel instantly comfortable and relaxed when you walk through the door. The size of any community is defined by the presence of certain institutions; churches, cathedrals, shops and schools but a community is not a community without a pub.
Of course there's no reason to limit yourself to one local. In fact it could be said to be rather short-sighted. Several locals can serve multiple purposes and that's without mentioning the sub-category of regulars. More on that to follow.
Over the years I have had many locals. They started as being the places that had "enlightened" policies on checking for proof of age then moved on to ones that were less likely to be rammed on a Friday night. After that I went through a phase of seeking "atmosphere" (usually meaning smoky, dingy and with interesting facial hair on men and women alike) before realising my true niche; good beer ideally supplemented by good food.
At the moment I have two places I would call locals. The first is best described as a "boozer". It's principle function for those that frequent it seems to be the consumption of drinks. I discovered it mainly because it is at the end of my road and far enough away from the centre of town that it avoids tourist and student traffic. It has a pleasing simplicity about it. No elaborate polished glass furniture, pretentious bar snacks, thumping music or cocktail menu that relies more on hope than skill. Better still, it's dog friendly and child unfriendly. There's all you would expect for entertainment; a pool table, darts, dominoes and a big screen for the odd sporting function. The menu features excellent pub grub. Special note should go to the excellent Pieminster pies. This place is usually my default choice when I feel like a quiet pint on my own with a bit of anonymity or if I feel like more than one and don't have a lift.
My other local is a proper village pub (even if I don't live in the village). It was found when lost in the countryside and the inside turned out to be as picturesque as the ancient stone and thatched roof suggested. The beautiful surroundings are matched only by the warm welcome and community atmosphere. Oh and did I mention the picturesque garden with the friendly rabbits, docile border collie and vast amounts of parking just to finish it off. Unsurprisingly I have been making regular trips since I moved into the area and have as such got to know the staff and the owners... to the point my they recognise my voice on the phone. The food served is delicious home-cooking with plentiful portions. All in all it's hard to find an excuse not to go for a swift half fairly regularly. It's one of the few places I will make the effort to attend any of the functions organised.
So what of the other category; regulars? These are usually places I know of but don't visit frequently or make a particular effort to go to. Usually they are visited as a result of proximity. Naturally there are a couple of places in the centre of town visited when a pre-, mid- or post-shopping pit stop is required. They will have good beer and an interesting feature or two. I also have a couple of places along the river for refreshment if out for a stroll.
Pubs on the regular list are still familiar surroundings but less of a second home. At best there will be a spark of vague recognition in the eyes of the staff rather than recognising my voice. The huge advantage of having regular haunts is the comfort of knowing exactly what you're getting. The guarantee of a decent pint and a good sandwich when lunch is needed; a crackling log fire on a winter's evening or a sunny garden on a summer afternoon.
There is of course one final category; the potentials. Pubs that look worth investigating to find out if they are worthy of further visits. Obviously it would be silly not to try them in case you deprive yourself of an absolute gem. And being a scientist I would also have to recommend trying each one multiple times to ensure a high average and therefore reliable results! Naturally I will endeavour to try a decent spectrum and write them up here.
On that note, I'm off for a pint!
TFB
Saturday, 14 December 2013
Mulled Wine
It's the festive season: the season to be jolly and usually "jolly". Gallons of festive cheer are consumed by revellers. One particularly seasonal tipple is mulled wine. This can be a bit of a double-edged sword. Good mulled wine is excellent; bad stuff is truly horrific. Therefore, being the thoughtful, sharing type I thought I would give you my recipe for mulled wine so you can guarantee to enjoy yourself and impress your guests over Christmas.
Step one: throw away those ghastly pre-made sachets. All they do is make the wine taste like old feet.
The major ingredient is of course red wine. Since it's going to have a lot added to it, leave the Petrus in the cellar and go for something a little less expensive. A full-bodied North Italian red is my usual bottle of choice although whatever is on special offer is usually a good rule of thumb.
Next add some dark rum (I like Lamb's Old Navy but OVD is a good substitute). For a guide to quantity, add enough rum that you think, "my that's a lot of rum" and then a bit more for luck. The aim is to get the "warming" effect of the spirit along with the physical warmth of the drink.
Along with the rum, add some caster sugar (about 150g) and a cinnamon stick. Pour in about 250ml of good orange juice - the smooth stuff and then start preparing the fruit. I usually use an orange and a lemon. Massage both until they are soft and pliable so they are ready to release their juice (10 seconds in the microwave will have a similar effect but be less soothing). Slice the lemon about a third of the way through in several places and put in the mixture (ideally contained in a heavy-based saucepan). Next stud the orange all over with whole cloves. It's a lot of effort and quite fiddly but the visual effect is stunning and it adds a real richness to the flavour.
In an ideal world I would heat this up until just warm then allow it to sit for a couple of hours before warming it again and serving however it can be warmed and served immediately. Enjoy with mince pies and (if you must) carols.
Cheers
TFB
P.s. Warning: if you're even in the same room as the pot don't even look at a car never mind think about driving!
Step one: throw away those ghastly pre-made sachets. All they do is make the wine taste like old feet.
The major ingredient is of course red wine. Since it's going to have a lot added to it, leave the Petrus in the cellar and go for something a little less expensive. A full-bodied North Italian red is my usual bottle of choice although whatever is on special offer is usually a good rule of thumb.
Next add some dark rum (I like Lamb's Old Navy but OVD is a good substitute). For a guide to quantity, add enough rum that you think, "my that's a lot of rum" and then a bit more for luck. The aim is to get the "warming" effect of the spirit along with the physical warmth of the drink.
Along with the rum, add some caster sugar (about 150g) and a cinnamon stick. Pour in about 250ml of good orange juice - the smooth stuff and then start preparing the fruit. I usually use an orange and a lemon. Massage both until they are soft and pliable so they are ready to release their juice (10 seconds in the microwave will have a similar effect but be less soothing). Slice the lemon about a third of the way through in several places and put in the mixture (ideally contained in a heavy-based saucepan). Next stud the orange all over with whole cloves. It's a lot of effort and quite fiddly but the visual effect is stunning and it adds a real richness to the flavour.
In an ideal world I would heat this up until just warm then allow it to sit for a couple of hours before warming it again and serving however it can be warmed and served immediately. Enjoy with mince pies and (if you must) carols.
Cheers
TFB
P.s. Warning: if you're even in the same room as the pot don't even look at a car never mind think about driving!
Wednesday, 11 December 2013
Restaurant Review: The Coach and Horses - Chiselhampton
Normally going out to eat somewhere new is cause for celebration. Even if the meal out isn't to celebrate anything in particular, the excitement of trying somewhere new is enough to create a bit of a party atmosphere. However, despite wanting to eat there for a while, my first visit to the Coach and Horses, in the Oxfordshire village of Chiselhampton was begun with a heavy heart. This is because it marked my last day in a job which I had greatly enjoyed and also enforced that I would no longer be working with people who's company (*ahem* I mean professional support and guidance) I had had the privilege of for the last year. Anyway, I know they're reading this so I will stop before their heads get any bigger.
The Coach and Horses is a coaching inn on the road between Oxford and the market town of Thame. From the road it looks like motley collection of old stone buildings and it is easy to imagine masked highwaymen tying up their horses here before slaking their thirst and assessing their booty. Inside; low ceilings, crackling log fires and a maze-like quality reinforce this. Despite my conjuring up images of Dick Turpin, the pub is in-fact a charming family-run establishment. The chef-proprietor took over the business from his parents and his daughters provided the charming (and remarkably patient) front of house service.
Initial plus points were won at the bar where seasonal beers from Hook Norton Brewery were on tap. Once a suitable quantity of the excellent 12 days had been supped we were shown through to our table. Unusually, the set Christmas menu looked so good that I didn't even bother looking at the main menu. The turkey and trimmings was complemented by an array of other seasonal dishes including Scottish salmon (good ingredient sourcing there) and pheasant. There was a vegetarian option but you didn't seriously expect me to look at it did you?
Before I get ahead of myself, let me recommend the Coach and Horses chicken liver pate. It was beautifully rich and thick and served with plenty of toast. Now on to the wonderful pheasant. It was served wrapped in bacon which kept it lovely and moist and accompanied by some lovely stuffing and a fantastic mushroom sauce. Seasonal veggies were served separately allowing picky eaters like me to express their naturally descerning tastes and only take what they want. A couple of roasties finished everything off nicely.
Dessert was an interesting course. Anyone who has read my previous posts will know that I usually favour a cheese board to finish off a meal. However, the quality of the previous two courses was such that I decided to take a bit of a punt and go for one of the desserts that required a bit more cooking. Eventually I opted for the profiteroles (although the choice was a hard one). They arrived looking delicious. One particularly nice touch was the sauce being served on the side ensuring that they were neither drowned nor over-sauced. My decision to go for something other than cheese was well made. The profiteroles has a lovely, delicate consistency with a beautiful flavour and just enough cream to complement the lashings of chocolate sauce.
As I mentioned previously, the service was excellent. Everybody coped with and tolerated a mass of mild rowdy types extremely well. The courses also arrived at roughly the same time for everyone avoiding awkward pauses as we were waiting for everyone to get served.
In conclusion; I will be going back there as soon as I can find an excuse. Delicious food, excellent beer, friendly service and a lovely environment all worked together to create a wonderful meal. Enough said.
TFB
The Coach and Horses is a coaching inn on the road between Oxford and the market town of Thame. From the road it looks like motley collection of old stone buildings and it is easy to imagine masked highwaymen tying up their horses here before slaking their thirst and assessing their booty. Inside; low ceilings, crackling log fires and a maze-like quality reinforce this. Despite my conjuring up images of Dick Turpin, the pub is in-fact a charming family-run establishment. The chef-proprietor took over the business from his parents and his daughters provided the charming (and remarkably patient) front of house service.
Initial plus points were won at the bar where seasonal beers from Hook Norton Brewery were on tap. Once a suitable quantity of the excellent 12 days had been supped we were shown through to our table. Unusually, the set Christmas menu looked so good that I didn't even bother looking at the main menu. The turkey and trimmings was complemented by an array of other seasonal dishes including Scottish salmon (good ingredient sourcing there) and pheasant. There was a vegetarian option but you didn't seriously expect me to look at it did you?
Before I get ahead of myself, let me recommend the Coach and Horses chicken liver pate. It was beautifully rich and thick and served with plenty of toast. Now on to the wonderful pheasant. It was served wrapped in bacon which kept it lovely and moist and accompanied by some lovely stuffing and a fantastic mushroom sauce. Seasonal veggies were served separately allowing picky eaters like me to express their naturally descerning tastes and only take what they want. A couple of roasties finished everything off nicely.
Dessert was an interesting course. Anyone who has read my previous posts will know that I usually favour a cheese board to finish off a meal. However, the quality of the previous two courses was such that I decided to take a bit of a punt and go for one of the desserts that required a bit more cooking. Eventually I opted for the profiteroles (although the choice was a hard one). They arrived looking delicious. One particularly nice touch was the sauce being served on the side ensuring that they were neither drowned nor over-sauced. My decision to go for something other than cheese was well made. The profiteroles has a lovely, delicate consistency with a beautiful flavour and just enough cream to complement the lashings of chocolate sauce.
As I mentioned previously, the service was excellent. Everybody coped with and tolerated a mass of mild rowdy types extremely well. The courses also arrived at roughly the same time for everyone avoiding awkward pauses as we were waiting for everyone to get served.
In conclusion; I will be going back there as soon as I can find an excuse. Delicious food, excellent beer, friendly service and a lovely environment all worked together to create a wonderful meal. Enough said.
TFB
Saturday, 7 December 2013
Guest Post: The Dinner Party
Tensions were mounting and emotions were running high. The time had finally come... for the Dinner Party.
The Venue: My parents house - providing access to a decently sized kitchen
The Guests: The hosts - my parents, the chefs - myself and TFB - and the esteemed visitors; my father's former pupil master (tutor in law speak) and his new wife (no he's not a serial philanderer, but a delightful gentleman getting on in years who's been lucky enough to meet a lovely new lady after being bereaved).
The Menu: Having been mulled over for many months and being reincarnated multiple times we had eventually decided upon... Cured salmon served on toast with soft cheese and chives for starters, a recipe adapted from James Martin's recent Food Map of Britain programme. Main was to be chicken in a whisky mushroom sauce with dauphinoise potatoes and griddled courgettes from TFB's favourite Whisky Kitchen cookbook. Finally dessert was my own creation of a white chocolate and lemon cheesecake. If you're diabetic look away now but the ingredients are white chocolate, juice of two lemons, condensed milk, whipped double cream and cream cheese (although I didn't mention that to my cheese phobic father). A final flourish was provided by TFB's homemade and truly luxurious tablet, for those who are uninitiated tablet is not a pill but rather a crunchy version of fudge, made primarily from sugar and condensed milk. Yum!
The concept had arisen as TFB and I are keen entertainers and Mum and Dad were long overdue in reciprocating an invitation. I was desperate for TFB to meet the esteemed visitor, whom I knew to be an amusing companion and as such a convenient date was arranged for everyone to converge for Sunday lunch. What followed amounted to a turf war. My mother is a little proprietorial when it comes to her kitchen and the rights to cook almost had to be physically wrestled from her. After she had finally conceded we were nagged for weeks about finalising a menu and providing her with a list of ingredients. Ultimately she contented herself with bustling about while we were prepping. A sample of conversation went along the lines of:
Mum "It's not a problem if I just prepare dinner for tomorrow in a corner is it?"
Me "Well actually we're needing all the space for our prep and we'll fall over each other if you do"
Mum, as she sets herself up anyway "I won't take up much space"
It was a toss up who was most likely to come to harm - her, as my patience wore out, or us as we tripped over her and went flying.
Needless to say no injuries did occur and the end result was nearly flawless. I was thoroughly won over by the salmon, despite my concealed skepticism beforehand. I have since made TFB do it again. Main was very well received. If I was being super picky the chicken had maybe had a minute or two too long in the pan but was still acceptably tender and succulent and the accompanying sauce was a triumph. The plating was magnificent with individual ramekins holding the dauphinoise. Compliments abounded as we all enjoyed the dish. Finally my dessert was sweet and delicious. Prepared in individual pudding rings it stood in the middle of the plates, garnished with raspberries and grated dark chocolate and was yummy! The tablet at the end was the crowning glory and not only did a nameless guess admit to losing count after 13 pieces but was seen leaving with a doggy bag!
Lunch extended throughout the afternoon with the guests not leaving until gone 5pm. Everybody had seemingly had a wonderful time and TFB and I were really rather pleased with ourselves. It has to be said that he did the bulk of the work but I hope I proved useful and I think in the kitchen we make quite a good team. And the best bit of all was that as it wasn't our house we didn't even have to do the washing up! That's why Mum has a dishwasher - he's called Dad!
Happy Cooking
The Girlfriend.
Wednesday, 4 December 2013
Patisserie Valerie
I have written before about the pleasure that is breakfast on a weekend. A self-indulgent feast to counteract the daily drudgery of cereal. A few weeks ago, we decided that we would have breakfast at the central Oxford branch of Patisserie Valerie. Although neither of us are huge fans of national chains, the cakes in the window were rather seductive. Sadly appearances can be deceptive.
Things started with moderate promise. As well as cakes, the menu had a fry up on it. Admittedly it was a fry-up costing eight quid; a bit steep if you ask me. However, it showed that there were at least decent ingredients on the premises; specifically bacon and bread. You may see where this is going. A bacon sandwich seemed like a distinct possibility. All good so far. Unfortunately things didn't turn out to be that simple. I started my request with a suitably sheepish, "I know it's not strictly speaking on the menu but..." My request for a bacon sandwich was met with a look of such confused blankness that I began to think I had asked for a pollonium-cooked paving slab in some obscure conversational Zwahili dialect. Eventually I was told that a bacon sandwich was impossible in a tone that questioned why anyone would want such a thing ever! This didn't endear the place much. How hard can it be? Bacon, bread, a bit of butter and maybe some brown sauce. It doesn't take a Michelin star. It doesn't even really take opposable thumbs. Given the cooks in the building can prepare a fry up, a bacon sandwich shouldn't be beyond their ability.To add insult to injury I was then helpfully informed that they have bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwiches.
Oh wait, so they can place some bacon between bread. They just need superfluous pollution too. Or maybe it's hot ingredients that prove a problem. A sharp kick on the shin from my other-half prevented me asking for a B.L.T. minus the L. and the T.
Grumblingly I settled for my pastry staple, a pain aux chocolate. All I can say is that I wish I hadn't bothered. Sometimes hunger can be the preferable alternative. We were given virtually no option about having our pastries heated. They were being given their blast in the microwave whether we liked it or not. Sadly this did little to conceal the fact that they tasted like they had been sitting on a shelf for at least a day and had then been dropped in cement. If you think all of this is sour grapes about my beloved bacon sandwich then I can confirm that my girlfriend found her pastry almost inedible too.
So to recap, my preferred choice wasn't available and the backup option was distinctly unpalatable. A saving grace would be that it was cheap but there was no such luck there either. Two hot drinks and a couple of pastries cost nearly fifteen quid. A bit steep in anybody's books especially given the poor service and the disappointing food.
I would like to report some mitigating features to recommend this place but unfortunately I can't. We didn't even get the the bill quickly thus delaying our escape to pastures more fun.
My honest advice; if you're walking past a Patisserie Valerie and fancy a snack, keep walking. You might be lucky and find a bit of rubble or some old cigarette butts to nibble on.
TFB
Things started with moderate promise. As well as cakes, the menu had a fry up on it. Admittedly it was a fry-up costing eight quid; a bit steep if you ask me. However, it showed that there were at least decent ingredients on the premises; specifically bacon and bread. You may see where this is going. A bacon sandwich seemed like a distinct possibility. All good so far. Unfortunately things didn't turn out to be that simple. I started my request with a suitably sheepish, "I know it's not strictly speaking on the menu but..." My request for a bacon sandwich was met with a look of such confused blankness that I began to think I had asked for a pollonium-cooked paving slab in some obscure conversational Zwahili dialect. Eventually I was told that a bacon sandwich was impossible in a tone that questioned why anyone would want such a thing ever! This didn't endear the place much. How hard can it be? Bacon, bread, a bit of butter and maybe some brown sauce. It doesn't take a Michelin star. It doesn't even really take opposable thumbs. Given the cooks in the building can prepare a fry up, a bacon sandwich shouldn't be beyond their ability.To add insult to injury I was then helpfully informed that they have bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwiches.
Oh wait, so they can place some bacon between bread. They just need superfluous pollution too. Or maybe it's hot ingredients that prove a problem. A sharp kick on the shin from my other-half prevented me asking for a B.L.T. minus the L. and the T.
Grumblingly I settled for my pastry staple, a pain aux chocolate. All I can say is that I wish I hadn't bothered. Sometimes hunger can be the preferable alternative. We were given virtually no option about having our pastries heated. They were being given their blast in the microwave whether we liked it or not. Sadly this did little to conceal the fact that they tasted like they had been sitting on a shelf for at least a day and had then been dropped in cement. If you think all of this is sour grapes about my beloved bacon sandwich then I can confirm that my girlfriend found her pastry almost inedible too.
So to recap, my preferred choice wasn't available and the backup option was distinctly unpalatable. A saving grace would be that it was cheap but there was no such luck there either. Two hot drinks and a couple of pastries cost nearly fifteen quid. A bit steep in anybody's books especially given the poor service and the disappointing food.
I would like to report some mitigating features to recommend this place but unfortunately I can't. We didn't even get the the bill quickly thus delaying our escape to pastures more fun.
My honest advice; if you're walking past a Patisserie Valerie and fancy a snack, keep walking. You might be lucky and find a bit of rubble or some old cigarette butts to nibble on.
TFB
Saturday, 30 November 2013
Haggis, Neeps and Tatties
Today is St. Andrew's day; the patron Saint of Scotland (amongst a few other places). To mark this I will be wearing my kilt but that doesn't really have much of a place in a food blog so I thought I would share my recipe for the most traditional of Scottish deelicacies... haggis, neeps and tatties.
For the uninitiated, haggis is a small hairy creature with legs shorter on one side than on the other. This allows them to run round hills more easily. Obviously male haggises (haggi) have legs shorter on one side and female on the other allowing them to meet half way round the hill.
Back in the real world, it is a dish of sheep offal, oatmeal, onions and spices. On paper I'll admit, this isn't the most enticing of combinations however most people are converts on tasting. With an open mind, it is the perfect hearty dish for these ever colder winter evenings. If you're looking to buy some then it can be found in many good butchers and some good supermarkets such as Waitrose. I recommend McSweens as the best to go for. To get the best results I usually stand it in about 2 inches of water in a baking tray, add a wee sploosh of whisky then cover it with tinfoil and cook in a medium-hot oven for about an hour.
Tatties are potatoes, ideally mashed. For best results I infuse the milk for the mashing with the potato skins and simmer the butter gently until it goes a lovely nut-brown colour. It is also worth rinsing the chopped potatoes a few times under running water to remove some of the starch.
For the neeps I generally use mashed swede. This does tend to have a bit of a watery flavour if not treated carefully. For that reason I tend to mix in some chopped parsnips to add a bit of flavour and texture. I also only use butter for the mashing.
Finally, to finish all this off, a Balmoral sauce does the job nicely. Around 300ml of lamb stock simmered until it is thick and viscous with a glass of white wine, whisky (naturally), some lemon juice and a tablespoon of good quality heather honey with a few twists of black pepper will make the perfect sauce. The quantities can be played with until the desired flavour and consistency have been achieved.
Obviously, to finish all of this properly a whisky is required. I think on this occasion, depending on the weather, either an Aberlour 10 year old or an Arran 10 year old should hit the spot nicely!
Sliante
TFB
Tuesday, 26 November 2013
Whisky Gifts
It's that time of year again. Mass hysteria has descended over the general population like the first frost of winter. Suddenly the question on everybody's lips is, "What can I get... ?" insert person of choice. Special offers are raided, fellow shoppers elbowed aside and general grumpiness levels rise (well mine anyway).
Eventually thoughts will turn either in inspiration or desperation to whisky. There's a flash of relief as you remember that old Uncle Alec likes a dram.... or at least seems the sort that does. Not only that but a bottle of whisky has a certain grace and elegance to it. Gravitas even. Not only that, it doesn't take up too much space, looks good on the sideboard and, barring the more collectible expressions, is the perfect sort of price.
So you've decided on a bottle. Now the big question is which one? Generally if it's wet and tastes of whisky it will go down well but let's assume you're planning on being reasonably adventurous and go for a malt. You could of course go for one of the Glens; Glenfiddich, Glenmorangie or Glen Livet. Between them they make up a significant percentage of single malt production in Scotland. All have their own strengths as whiskys and will provide an enjoyable drink. However if you're buying a bottle I suspect you want to go for something a "bit different"; something special that will make an impression.
There are of course endless obscure expressions that can impress and titillate a connoisseur but they are hard to get hold of and invariably expensive. If you're not buying for a connoisseur then (if you have any sort of conscience) you won't want to run the risk of it being diluted with coke!
Fortunately there is one particular expression that ticks all the boxes in my book. A bottle that will satisfy even a demanding aficionado but will equally provide a nice drink to someone who doesn't drink a lot of whisky. It has a lovely, complex flavour that can be savoured and de-constructed but equally, it tastes of whisky. Dram after a meal? No problem, this is robust enough to be enjoyed. Equally, it's light enough to be had on it's own on a winter afternoon. It also has the geeky trivia-value of being from the most northern (legal) whisky distillery in the world.
The bottle in question? Highland Park 12 year old.
So give it a try; either a bottle of festive cheer and goodwill for yourself or as a gift. Either way, I hope you enjoy it.
Sliante
TFB
Eventually thoughts will turn either in inspiration or desperation to whisky. There's a flash of relief as you remember that old Uncle Alec likes a dram.... or at least seems the sort that does. Not only that but a bottle of whisky has a certain grace and elegance to it. Gravitas even. Not only that, it doesn't take up too much space, looks good on the sideboard and, barring the more collectible expressions, is the perfect sort of price.
So you've decided on a bottle. Now the big question is which one? Generally if it's wet and tastes of whisky it will go down well but let's assume you're planning on being reasonably adventurous and go for a malt. You could of course go for one of the Glens; Glenfiddich, Glenmorangie or Glen Livet. Between them they make up a significant percentage of single malt production in Scotland. All have their own strengths as whiskys and will provide an enjoyable drink. However if you're buying a bottle I suspect you want to go for something a "bit different"; something special that will make an impression.
There are of course endless obscure expressions that can impress and titillate a connoisseur but they are hard to get hold of and invariably expensive. If you're not buying for a connoisseur then (if you have any sort of conscience) you won't want to run the risk of it being diluted with coke!
Fortunately there is one particular expression that ticks all the boxes in my book. A bottle that will satisfy even a demanding aficionado but will equally provide a nice drink to someone who doesn't drink a lot of whisky. It has a lovely, complex flavour that can be savoured and de-constructed but equally, it tastes of whisky. Dram after a meal? No problem, this is robust enough to be enjoyed. Equally, it's light enough to be had on it's own on a winter afternoon. It also has the geeky trivia-value of being from the most northern (legal) whisky distillery in the world.
The bottle in question? Highland Park 12 year old.
So give it a try; either a bottle of festive cheer and goodwill for yourself or as a gift. Either way, I hope you enjoy it.
Sliante
TFB
Saturday, 9 November 2013
Restaurant Review: The Waterside Inn Bray
It was the third anniversary of my girlfriend and I getting together and what better way to for two budding foodies to celebrate a special occasion than by going out for a meal? More in hope than in faith we applied (yes applied) for table reservations at the Waterside Inn. The other three Michelin starred restaurant in Bray.
Much to our surprise, our application was successful so on the day of our anniversary we packed into the car and headed off to Bray. When we got there, we encountered the first issue of the night. Valet parking. In front of us was a fleet of Audis, behind a queue of Range Rovers. We however were in a Corsa. A pink Corsa. Needless to say, we felt a wee bit out of place. The parking attendant did however have the good grace to keep a straight face... just!
We got in and were greeted in hushed, deferential tones although it was not immediately clear whether these were directed at us or the institution. In the waiting room we were presented with menus, canapés and a drink.
Fairly quickly I decided that the tasting menu was the order of the day. So far so good. Unfortunately, when I highlighted my egg allergy, things started to go a bit wrong. I thought that, as dishes with eggs were highlighted on the menu, the kitchen would be well versed in mitigating their use. Apparently not. The waiter seemed rather flummoxed and unsettled by my revelation. Ultimately this resulted in me getting most of the dishes but some were missing elements. This I could cope with but where I felt really let down were the dessert courses. My first was substituted with a cheese board which wasn't entirely bad news. The second was substituted with a plate of fruit. This was more suitable to places where Michelins are fitted rather than awarded. Given Roux is a noted pastry chef amongst his other talents, I expected better. I was similarly let down by the petit fours with coffee. Four rather bland fruit jellies were hardly a substitute and left me feeling distinctly fobbed off.
What didn't help was a bit of a language barrier. Having a degree in Biology along with living with food allergies for 27 years means I have come to understand allergies rather well. If I hear how eggs feature in a dish, I usually have a fairly good idea how I will react to them (as well as having a decent chance of explaining why). Unfortunately the waiter and I couldn't find a common language for me to say this so in the end, I gave up.
So beyond that, how was the rest of the food? If I were to sum it up in one sentence it would be: nice but uninspiring. My lobster starter was delicious but spoiled by the heap of green stuff that looked like it had come straight out of a supermarket salad bag and gave the dish the feel of being served in a greasy-spoon "caff" rather than a world renowned restaurant. Next was a very tasty chestnut and champagne veloute with a lovely mouth-feel and mine was served without the foie gras. However it was a bit on the heavy side for something so early in the meal. Next up was an halibut which was beautifully cooked and had a wonderful texture. Finally was the duck which was a bit of an highlight. Beautifully flavoured and succulently tender, it was extremely satisfying. There was a decent amount of duck on the plate too.
So why uninspiring? Each of the dishes were well presented and tasty but none of them were truly mind-blowing. To my mind that's what one should be getting in a three star restaurant. The heavy use of ingredients like foie gras, caviar and truffle gave the meal and air of decadence but also the impression of "posh food by numbers". Nothing was enormously surprising nor terribly exciting. The general sense of disaffection was brought to a head by the prices. Nobody expects a three star restaurant to be cheap but the prices we were charged were verging on the piss-taking. Fifty quid for a main course. Really? We both agreed that for the sort of money we paid we were expecting a meal that we would be talking about for years to come. We were prepared to pay lots but what we did pay, didn't represent value.
Unfortunately the service didn't do a lot to counteract our general dissatisfaction. The restaurant was very well staffed but this lead to lots of people milling about trying to look busy. This in turn created a bustling atmosphere which was extremely unsettling. There was also lots of duplication of tasks. I got asked about my wine three times by three separate people before I had even had a chance to taste it (and anybody that knows me will know that it doesn't take me long to get stuck into a drink). This was after the sommelier looked slightly perplexed when I asked for his recommendations for wine to go with my meal. Throughout the meal we were interrogated as to the food often mid-mouthful or half way through a sentence making it extremely difficult either to enjoy the meal or relax and enjoy each other's company.
I did like the bread basket though. It was made out of beautifully baked and glazed dough.
In conclusion, I really can't recommend going here unless you desperately want to go to a three star restaurant that's not in London and you don't like the idea of the Fat duck While the food is certainly delicious, it does not justify the price charged. Meals of similar quality can be obtained elsewhere for a more reasonable price. Other venues also have far more personality and soul rather than a rather stiff routine that felt in hindsight like a bit of a gastronomic conveyor belt.
TFB
Much to our surprise, our application was successful so on the day of our anniversary we packed into the car and headed off to Bray. When we got there, we encountered the first issue of the night. Valet parking. In front of us was a fleet of Audis, behind a queue of Range Rovers. We however were in a Corsa. A pink Corsa. Needless to say, we felt a wee bit out of place. The parking attendant did however have the good grace to keep a straight face... just!
We got in and were greeted in hushed, deferential tones although it was not immediately clear whether these were directed at us or the institution. In the waiting room we were presented with menus, canapés and a drink.
Fairly quickly I decided that the tasting menu was the order of the day. So far so good. Unfortunately, when I highlighted my egg allergy, things started to go a bit wrong. I thought that, as dishes with eggs were highlighted on the menu, the kitchen would be well versed in mitigating their use. Apparently not. The waiter seemed rather flummoxed and unsettled by my revelation. Ultimately this resulted in me getting most of the dishes but some were missing elements. This I could cope with but where I felt really let down were the dessert courses. My first was substituted with a cheese board which wasn't entirely bad news. The second was substituted with a plate of fruit. This was more suitable to places where Michelins are fitted rather than awarded. Given Roux is a noted pastry chef amongst his other talents, I expected better. I was similarly let down by the petit fours with coffee. Four rather bland fruit jellies were hardly a substitute and left me feeling distinctly fobbed off.
What didn't help was a bit of a language barrier. Having a degree in Biology along with living with food allergies for 27 years means I have come to understand allergies rather well. If I hear how eggs feature in a dish, I usually have a fairly good idea how I will react to them (as well as having a decent chance of explaining why). Unfortunately the waiter and I couldn't find a common language for me to say this so in the end, I gave up.
So beyond that, how was the rest of the food? If I were to sum it up in one sentence it would be: nice but uninspiring. My lobster starter was delicious but spoiled by the heap of green stuff that looked like it had come straight out of a supermarket salad bag and gave the dish the feel of being served in a greasy-spoon "caff" rather than a world renowned restaurant. Next was a very tasty chestnut and champagne veloute with a lovely mouth-feel and mine was served without the foie gras. However it was a bit on the heavy side for something so early in the meal. Next up was an halibut which was beautifully cooked and had a wonderful texture. Finally was the duck which was a bit of an highlight. Beautifully flavoured and succulently tender, it was extremely satisfying. There was a decent amount of duck on the plate too.
So why uninspiring? Each of the dishes were well presented and tasty but none of them were truly mind-blowing. To my mind that's what one should be getting in a three star restaurant. The heavy use of ingredients like foie gras, caviar and truffle gave the meal and air of decadence but also the impression of "posh food by numbers". Nothing was enormously surprising nor terribly exciting. The general sense of disaffection was brought to a head by the prices. Nobody expects a three star restaurant to be cheap but the prices we were charged were verging on the piss-taking. Fifty quid for a main course. Really? We both agreed that for the sort of money we paid we were expecting a meal that we would be talking about for years to come. We were prepared to pay lots but what we did pay, didn't represent value.
Unfortunately the service didn't do a lot to counteract our general dissatisfaction. The restaurant was very well staffed but this lead to lots of people milling about trying to look busy. This in turn created a bustling atmosphere which was extremely unsettling. There was also lots of duplication of tasks. I got asked about my wine three times by three separate people before I had even had a chance to taste it (and anybody that knows me will know that it doesn't take me long to get stuck into a drink). This was after the sommelier looked slightly perplexed when I asked for his recommendations for wine to go with my meal. Throughout the meal we were interrogated as to the food often mid-mouthful or half way through a sentence making it extremely difficult either to enjoy the meal or relax and enjoy each other's company.
I did like the bread basket though. It was made out of beautifully baked and glazed dough.
In conclusion, I really can't recommend going here unless you desperately want to go to a three star restaurant that's not in London and you don't like the idea of the Fat duck While the food is certainly delicious, it does not justify the price charged. Meals of similar quality can be obtained elsewhere for a more reasonable price. Other venues also have far more personality and soul rather than a rather stiff routine that felt in hindsight like a bit of a gastronomic conveyor belt.
TFB
Monday, 4 November 2013
Party Planning
It was my mother's birthday recently. It is amazing how often she turns 21 (not least because I'm 27)! As part of the celebrations I (ably assisted by my girlfriend who was indulging her inner Pippa Middleton) put on a small "do" for her with her, my dad and a family friend with associated sprogs and dogs.
Naturally your friendly food blogger spent a considerable amount of time planning a key element; the food. After scrolling through numerous options for individually prepared dishes, I eventually settled for two big dishes that guests could help themselves to and eventually end up suitably stuffed. Even better (and a feature of luck rather than good planning) both dishes could be served with rice minimising the amount of prep. needed.
My first dish was a curry; an almost universal favourite. A korma was my eventual choice since it is rich and flavoursome without being too spicy. Critically it can also be prepared in bulk and in advance. I'm pleased to report that it was so popular that the pot was virtually licked clean.
My next dish was something of my own creation; beef beerginion. Sorry, it is a pun. My sense of humour is that clunking. The dish, as you may have guessed, is my take on a beef bourginion but made with copious volumes of beer rather than red wine. It simmers down to a beautiful, rich dish. Again this can be made in advance and in sufficient quantities to feed a medium-sized squadron (or my lot and a hungry dog).
I'm pleased to say that both dishes went down a storm.
Desserts were handled by my girlfriend; the one with the sweet tooth that I may have mentioned. The menu consisted of a delicious cheesecake, a birthday cake and (best of all in my opinion) a syrup dumpling. With that on offer, elasticated waistbands seem less like a sartorial slight and more like a vital necessity. All of this was finished off by some cupcakes beautifully decorated with poppies; my mum's favourite flower. These were done by my girlfriend's cousin who has an incredible talent when it comes to cupcakes and icing.
Key to all of this was one basic principle handed down from my mother and her mother before her; make sure that nobody was anything less than absolutely stuffed. Pancakes the next morning made this effect last well into the next day. Oh and some rolls and sausage for those that could stomach it.
Not only was spoiling my mother good fun. I enjoyed cooking for lots of people too. Much as I don't like planning, cooking is the exception that proves the rule. The challenge of cooking of cooking for a variety of ages and tastes is not one to be underestimated and extremely rewarding when it works out.
Most of all, both my girlfriend and I have learned one vital lesson which I will pass on to you now. When entertaining for crowds, paper plates are an absolute god-send. Washing up is minimised and we had more time to enjoy the party!
TFB
Friday, 11 October 2013
"I Don't Like Whisky"
The above quote is one I often hear when drawn into discussion on my passion for the water of life. Usually I meet this with the kind of look one would give a passing Martian and a blunt, grunted, "Why?"
There are two main reasons people give for their dislike. The first is a "bad experience" in their youth. Usually this involves a party, far too much mass produced spirit from a foreign climate and often a questionable choice of romantic partner or sleeping location. Often the headache afterwards is also cited as an excuse. To these people I say grow some backbone. Youth is meant to be blighted with silliness and questionable choices. Don't let too much of a bad decision put you off a lifetime of pleasure. As Oscar Wilde said, "Everything in moderation, including moderation!"
The other main reason given is not liking the experience of drinking whisky. "It burns" is a common reaction. In that case, may I suggest cutting it with a wonderful substance (and key ingredient of whisky itself) water. Naturally, Scottish spring water is the best but in the absence of this, there's plenty of the stuff in the tap! A few drops should be enough to extinguish the worst of the fire but if you want a really easy-drinking experience then I suggest adding equal measures of whisky and water. Going off on a tangent; I have recently developed a taste (probably on the back of re-reading the Bond novels) for whisky and soda. The slight bitterness of the soda offsets the richness of the whisky nicely. This is best saved for the cheaper blends though.
Of course, beyond the sensation of drinking, there are some people who claim that they dislike the taste. Usually they are in the company of those in the above paragraph; they have only really experienced poor quality whiskies or certainly ones that are not to their taste. Scotland may be a relatively small country but the diversity of flavours in the whisky is really quite astonishing. Not liking the flavour of whisky simply means not having tasted enough.
To get an understanding of the flavours available, one needs to understand a bit about the region the whisky comes from. The Scottish Whisky Association defines a whisky region as an area with three or more distilleries. In practical terms this translates to Speyside, Highland, Lowland, Island and Islay although I (and many others) would also argue that Cambletown should also be classified as a unique region. Although it only has two distilleries, the whisky produced is delicious and has some unique characteristics. However, working within the official definitions, there are still some tangible regional markers that can be used to get an idea of what a whisky will be like.
Let's start with Speyside. As the name suggests, Speyside distilleries are the ones that border the river Spey in the North East. They are noted for their light, fruity characteristics and cover giants of the whisky industry like Glenfiddich and Glenlivet. These whiskies are regarded by some connoisseurs as the best in the world.
Next are the Highland whiskies. They tend to be sweeter in character and have a smoother, creamier mouth-feel (for example Edradour). Most highland whiskies can also be found in the East of the country.
Lowland whiskies on the other hand can be found throughout the central belt of Scotland and on into the borders. These have a dry, cerial-like quality with some people describing the flavours as almost grassy. The lowland region is also home to the only distillery in Scotland that distils it's spirit three times rather than the more conventional two. This gives the whisky a particularly smooth character.
Island whiskies, as the name suggests, are produced on the Scottish islands. Given the geographical diversity of the islands, it probably won't be a huge surprise to find out that there is also a fair range of flavours in the whisky. However the dominant flavours are smoky and peaty ones with several being quite sweet too.
The final category is Islay. Although Islay is an island, the sheer number of distilleries on it combined with their truly unique style had marked Islay out as a separate region. Whiskies from here are usually very smoky and very peaty. There is also a very salty quality; almost like seaweed being used to scent the room. They are the perfect fireside whiskies but not for the feint-hearted.
All of the descriptions I have given you so far are fairly vague and broad (not to mention entirely subjective). Naturally there is considerable variation in the flavours of the whiskies produced within a region. Otherwise, where would the fun be? The descriptions are however useful in narrowing down choices when trying to find whiskies for somebody's taste. Giving someone with a sweet tooth an Islay whisky would be a mistake! Similarly, giving someone who like dry flavours a whisky from Speyside or the Lowlands probably isn't your best bet (unless your guest is as awkward as I am. For some reason I prefer savoury flavours to eat and dry flavours to drink but most of my favourite whiskies are at the sweeter end of the spectrum).
Net outcome of this post; I urge you to go out and try as many whiskies from different regions as possible. You will see that these generalisations have some truth.
Sliante.
TFB
There are two main reasons people give for their dislike. The first is a "bad experience" in their youth. Usually this involves a party, far too much mass produced spirit from a foreign climate and often a questionable choice of romantic partner or sleeping location. Often the headache afterwards is also cited as an excuse. To these people I say grow some backbone. Youth is meant to be blighted with silliness and questionable choices. Don't let too much of a bad decision put you off a lifetime of pleasure. As Oscar Wilde said, "Everything in moderation, including moderation!"
The other main reason given is not liking the experience of drinking whisky. "It burns" is a common reaction. In that case, may I suggest cutting it with a wonderful substance (and key ingredient of whisky itself) water. Naturally, Scottish spring water is the best but in the absence of this, there's plenty of the stuff in the tap! A few drops should be enough to extinguish the worst of the fire but if you want a really easy-drinking experience then I suggest adding equal measures of whisky and water. Going off on a tangent; I have recently developed a taste (probably on the back of re-reading the Bond novels) for whisky and soda. The slight bitterness of the soda offsets the richness of the whisky nicely. This is best saved for the cheaper blends though.
Of course, beyond the sensation of drinking, there are some people who claim that they dislike the taste. Usually they are in the company of those in the above paragraph; they have only really experienced poor quality whiskies or certainly ones that are not to their taste. Scotland may be a relatively small country but the diversity of flavours in the whisky is really quite astonishing. Not liking the flavour of whisky simply means not having tasted enough.
To get an understanding of the flavours available, one needs to understand a bit about the region the whisky comes from. The Scottish Whisky Association defines a whisky region as an area with three or more distilleries. In practical terms this translates to Speyside, Highland, Lowland, Island and Islay although I (and many others) would also argue that Cambletown should also be classified as a unique region. Although it only has two distilleries, the whisky produced is delicious and has some unique characteristics. However, working within the official definitions, there are still some tangible regional markers that can be used to get an idea of what a whisky will be like.
Let's start with Speyside. As the name suggests, Speyside distilleries are the ones that border the river Spey in the North East. They are noted for their light, fruity characteristics and cover giants of the whisky industry like Glenfiddich and Glenlivet. These whiskies are regarded by some connoisseurs as the best in the world.
Next are the Highland whiskies. They tend to be sweeter in character and have a smoother, creamier mouth-feel (for example Edradour). Most highland whiskies can also be found in the East of the country.
Lowland whiskies on the other hand can be found throughout the central belt of Scotland and on into the borders. These have a dry, cerial-like quality with some people describing the flavours as almost grassy. The lowland region is also home to the only distillery in Scotland that distils it's spirit three times rather than the more conventional two. This gives the whisky a particularly smooth character.
Island whiskies, as the name suggests, are produced on the Scottish islands. Given the geographical diversity of the islands, it probably won't be a huge surprise to find out that there is also a fair range of flavours in the whisky. However the dominant flavours are smoky and peaty ones with several being quite sweet too.
The final category is Islay. Although Islay is an island, the sheer number of distilleries on it combined with their truly unique style had marked Islay out as a separate region. Whiskies from here are usually very smoky and very peaty. There is also a very salty quality; almost like seaweed being used to scent the room. They are the perfect fireside whiskies but not for the feint-hearted.
All of the descriptions I have given you so far are fairly vague and broad (not to mention entirely subjective). Naturally there is considerable variation in the flavours of the whiskies produced within a region. Otherwise, where would the fun be? The descriptions are however useful in narrowing down choices when trying to find whiskies for somebody's taste. Giving someone with a sweet tooth an Islay whisky would be a mistake! Similarly, giving someone who like dry flavours a whisky from Speyside or the Lowlands probably isn't your best bet (unless your guest is as awkward as I am. For some reason I prefer savoury flavours to eat and dry flavours to drink but most of my favourite whiskies are at the sweeter end of the spectrum).
Net outcome of this post; I urge you to go out and try as many whiskies from different regions as possible. You will see that these generalisations have some truth.
Sliante.
TFB
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